CR-10 V2

2021-03-17 I finally received my CR-10 V2 today and assembly is becoming a joke. The unit is basically fully-assembled except for the gantry and the stabilizing "push" rods. The Z-Axis limit switch mount screws into a static location on the left side. The hotebed springs are also not the usual weak springs but the "upgraded" springs. They appear to be the same yellow colored springs used on the Ender 3 V2.

Since my version of Cura did not have a profile for the Creality CR-10 V2 I simply cloned the CR-10 profile for now. I will revisit every setting to see if there is anything that needs to be changed. I have already sliced three or four items with no problem and am printing a larger project now to see how it turns out.

The fans are pretty loud like the CR-10 but the rest of the system is not. It is very quiet. It is louder than the Ender 3 V2 thanks to the fans but printing is as quiet as the Ender 3 V2 (of course.) The motherboard uses a full-sized SD card. I prefer micro sd cards. I guess I will finally have a use for all those micro sd to sd adapters I own.

The external control box is very similar to the CR-10 V1 wit some minor cosmetic changes. The econnectors going to the printer are th enew style with the exception of the hotend connector. As you can see I have left the protective film it doesn't look nice but it keeps the screen cleaner.


While I like the blue metal pieces I do not like the blue plastic pieces Creality has started to incorporate into their designs. So far the effect has been a cheapening effect. I may not hold the popular opinion about this but those are my impressions.

I wish the Z-Axis limit switch mount were adjustable. It is not as designed from Creality but I guess you could rework the mounting holes in the plate into slots and then work from there. I might see about using some design tool to make that part. It would seem to be a great idea if you wanted to use a hotbed sticket and fiberglass build plate as opposed to the included carborundum build surface.

As it is now, the design forces you to use the carborundum plate or maybe the plain glass plate as the metal clips are permanently attached to the aluminum bed plate.


As soon as I have a chance I will try to fit the glass plate instead of the carborundum plate. I have a feeling the glass plate and the carborundum plate are the same thickness.

The push rods are quite intrusive but I guess I will become used to them. There is no doubt that they can help but they have to be adjusted properly. It looks to me as if you could distort the vertical gantry by maladjustment of the push rods.

As I did with my CR-10 I also installed an Ender 3 spool holder so I could relocate the control box away from the printer.


I don't think I like the filament detector I had quite a time getting the filament through it and into the extruder feed assembly.


2021-03-18 I found an adjustable Z-Axis switch mounting plate on Thingiverse that is fully-adjustable. This will allow you to switch between the glass plate and thinner surfaces like the hotbed sticker and fiberglass plate combination. It would also allow you to use stronger hotbed springs that did not compress as tightly as the OEM springs. I will be making some pieces today in PETG. I am trying to decide what colors to print.


See Adjustable CR-10 Z endstop at Thingiverse by John Racus. It is Thing Number #2349068 … In case the design ever disappears, here is an archived copy as I obtained it from Thingiverse.

If you noticed the CR-10 V2 appears taller than the CR-10 V1. This is only because the feet on the CR-10 V2 are longer. Approximately twice as tall as the V1 rubber feet.


I printed a few of these plates in PETG and PLA. I attached a limit switch to one and will install it on my V2 shortly. Since I printed with 100% infill it should be a sturdy attachment.


2021-04-24 I really detest the filament sensor unit. I guess I have a lot of brittle filament that breaks often making a nightmare of a problem to feed the filament.

Although the filament seems to be too brittle to feed properly through the filament sensor (often jamming it so I have to remove the sensor and work on it for awhile to get the broken piece of filament out!

I discovered quickly that you can simply remove the bloody sensor (disconnect the connector,)


This is a clear case of poor design. I am looking at the sensor and I have decided to purchase a few extra because they seem to be a problem but only as a prerequisite to taking my usual simple engineering approach.


I am going to try and DRILL OUT the internal tube. I looked it is just a mechanical micro switch so as long as I can "make" the switch I am good. I don't see why Creality made that filament feed tube so small.

The size of the machine screws attaching the sensor are M3X18MM Flat Socket Head (stainless)

2021-05-15 Today I had the chance to test the filament detector during a print job the filament broke. I removed the piece stuck in the PTFE tubing and then replaced the broken filament. At the moment when the filament broke and the piece moved out of the detector it allowed the switch to actuate (open) and the printer paused.

There was a message on the front panel "Change Filament" … One thing I did not like but understand was that at that point the CR-10 V2 started cooling the bed and nozzle. If the printer had been unattended that is exactly the behaviour you might wish for.

I resumed the print job and it seemed to go well. I took some trouble to make sure the filament was pushed all the way through into the nozzle with some excess oozing out so that I could see it.

The print turned out fine, I was unable to discover where it had paused by loking for any anomalies in the print itself.

So it actually works, heh. How amazing!