2016 07

Updated: 2016-07-03

I lost one 75AH battery today in my equipment it was overheating, venting hydrogen and bulging. i had the set of (8) batteries being charged from a Xantrex C40 and were basically on float at the time since I was not using the rack power system the last few weeks I have all the power I need from the main system and it is better quality power.

I was outside and came in my lab to hear a constant tone that sounded like some kind of electronic alarm. I searched everywhere until I realized the tone was coming from a battery in the rack that was also venting (and leaking) hydrogen and hydro-chloric acid.

It smelled terrible. Earlier I had begun to think that I had a plumbing problem with some noxious smells not venting but it was actually the hydrogen.

I caught it just in time as the the case was incredibly hot and the sides were bulged out a lot. It would have exploded soon I think. These are gel cells so it could get pretty messy I suppose..

I opened the breaker between the C40 charge controller and the battery pack. I carefully removed the bad battery and then re-arranged all the batteries so now there are only (7) 75AH batteries on the rack power system.

The rack power system has (3) 220W panels and a 3KW inverter dedicated to keeping network and network-attached-storage going independently of the main house solar-powered system.

I am stress testing the rack power system now drawing about 30A from the batteries while using 6A 110VAC from the inverter. I want to see if any more batteries want to blow up.

Updated: 2016-07-12

I received the new engine for the re-designed DC Generator yesterday. I unpacked the shipping box today just to inspect for damage.

I have not prepped it to be started yet. Oddly enough they didn't ship a paper manual with it but I already have the PDF manual. I don't know yet if I will have the jet replaced for high altitude use.

The new dc generator version I am buiiding will only have (1) DC generator attached. My old one which was stolen had (2).


NOTE: The PDF manual Honda makes available for the GC160UT2-QXE2 for my series engine (GCBPT-1XXXXXX) was protected so I removed all that nonsense. You couldn't paste text from the manual among other annoying things. Here is the link to the unprotected manual. Or you can simply click on the pdf image below.

Honda_GX160QXE2-00X37Z4M6010_NoRestriction.pdf honda-gx160-001.jpghonda-gx160-002.jpghonda-gx160-003.jpghonda-gx160-004.jpghonda-gx160-005.jpg

Updated: 2016-07-20

Yesterday I made a set of battery cables for the GX160 engine. I tested turning over the engine with the starter a few times and checked how much current the starter uses (49A) during energized state.


I should have read the manual first because I underestimated the starter current and used a 10A fuse on the power source when I should have known better. I hate blowing fuses because I try to be frugal. After the fact I measured the current with a clamp-on meter and it was using 40A when cranking.

Updated: 2016-07-23

I attached the pulley today. It is 1.75" OD and .75" bore. It cost about $15 with shipping. It is cast iron. I used the original key that came with the engine.


I located a few hour meters that I liked and am going to decide on which one soon. I don't need a tachometer and I want something basic, reliable and preferably mechanical.

I purchased this chrome alternator bracket and used hardware from my nuts and bolts inventory. The black bracket is a re-purposed piece of steel from one of my Jeep grill guards that I discarded long ago but kept the brackets. They are drilled with an elongated hole allowing for adjustment. They are very strong as you might imagine. I will bolt them to the steel base plate.


I will use a very short piece (perhaps 3-4 " long) piece of steel flat stock to connect the bottom of the dc generator to the base plate as well using another repurposed grill guard bracket.


This is not the design I planned to implement above due to two factors. 1. Because I can't find a machinist or welder nearby 2. I don't feel like waiting to at least get this in temporary use until I can locate someone who can fabricate the above design using the threaded rod and stanchion mount I used on my old dc generator.


I have a quantity of rubber about .50" thick I am going to cut into vibration dampers for the engine and tensioning-arm and mount for the dc generator. The rubber came from a new "NAPA" semi-truck wheel flap I purchased for another project and had a lot of leftover material.

I am still waiting for some steel plate to arrive so I can mount all this to a base. I am going to try and mount this as in a compact form factor keeping the DC generator as small as possible.

Updated: 2016-07-27

I got some steel plate and am about to complete my layout and marking for cutting and drilling. The steel plate is initially 24" x 20" but I will most likely cut it down much smaller once I have the layout for the PMA mounting-brackets and for the battery mounting finalized.


I will most likely trim the front six-inches 6" of steel to reduce the overall footprint.


The starter battery will be sitting behind the PMA generator in this corner of the steel mounting plate.


The battery I have ordered is 26AH and weighs 18lbs, The physical dimensions will be 6.5" long, 6.9" wide and 4.90" high.